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View Full Version : OS's "How to make a custom chassis" Pt. 1



OldSchoolRC
07-10-2010, 09:40 PM
OK, a little custom tutorial on the art of make a new chassis. I took pictures as I went when making the second chassis for my Nitro Slash, and the principles work when making any flat chassis. TVP's are a little different and if this is well received, I'll make another when I make a new TVP.

But first, onto the flat chassis. This one is about as easy as it gets as it's really just replicating an existing chassis with a few mods.

First step - design! For this one, I new I needed a N.Rusty chassis, just longer. Took some measurements and found out how long the chassis needs to be. I always use graph paper to help keep things square as I go. First thing I do is mark out the length I need and establish a center line.
http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr84/dschlegel/how%20to/07102010010.jpg

Then, measure and mark out the center line on the chassis itself. I measure at a few points, and then connect the dots with a ruler. While tracing out the chassis, keep the centerline on the chassis square and level with the centerline on the paper: keeping it as square as possible is extremely important! Then, I laid the chassis on top and started tracing it. I lined it up with the back line and did the rear of the chassis. Then I lined the front up and traced backwards. I fileld in the lines in the middle to make the longer chassis. You are just worried abut the external shape and any cut outs (flywheel, tranny, etc) that have to come out of the chassis.
http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr84/dschlegel/how%20to/07102010011.jpg

When traced, it should look like this. I always trace in pencil so i can erase and make any changes or mods as needed. This chassis is slightly narrower than the stock one.
http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr84/dschlegel/how%20to/07102010012.jpg

Once I'm made all my changes, I go back over the lines with a nice black pen. Just helps to see it better during the next step.
http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr84/dschlegel/how%20to/07102010013.jpg

I cut out the tracing of the chassis from the paper leaving a little space around the lines, and use masking tape to tape it down over whatever I'm cutting. Here's it a sheet of 2mm 6061. Then, I take a ruler and an old exacto blade and go over the entire shape and score the design into the metal.
http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr84/dschlegel/how%20to/07102010015.jpg

When done, I go over it it a magic marker and wipe off the extra before it dries. A little stays in the score line and made it easier to see when cutting.
http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr84/dschlegel/how%20to/07102010017.jpg

OldSchoolRC
07-10-2010, 09:51 PM
Time to cut!! Use whatever is the best means. Bandsaw, jigsaw, scroll saw, hand saw - whatever you have and are comfortable with. I drill a few pilot holes for the blade and use a jigsaw. Slowly and carefully. I clean up any rough cuts with a file.
http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr84/dschlegel/how%20to/07102010018.jpg

Now, here's the second tricky part. Drilling the holes. What I do is mark the centerlines on my new chassis, line them up as squarely as possible and drill 1 hole. Then, I use a screw and bolt the 2 chassis together. I make sure all is still aligned, then I drill a second hole, and bolt that together. Now, the chassis plates will not move, and you can use the original as a template. Drill all the holes to size.

Here, I have 2 screws in, and am about to drill the rest of the holes. For this chassis, I first decided where was the cutoff for the scews on the upper desk as the motor area and marked them on the template. Then, I did all the "back half" screws, unbolted the chassis and did the same procedure, but from the front of the chassis for all the front "half screws."
http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr84/dschlegel/how%20to/07102010019.jpg

Once all the holes are drilled, flip the chassis and countersink any screws the stock chassis had, and make sure all your chassis edges are clean and burr free.
http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr84/dschlegel/how%20to/07102010021.jpg


Then, start swapping over parts! (See nitro slash build, lol)

Hope somebody found this useful

Maxx man
07-10-2010, 09:52 PM
thanks os :) Now to create a project to do this :p

Fiero_Man_121
07-11-2010, 01:39 AM
not to derail this thread but nb why not make an srt2? i could hook you up with info and then you would have a t4 killer

OldSchoolRC
07-11-2010, 10:44 AM
Had no urge to. :) I have no T4's to kill!

Next couple of chassis:
1/10 TA02 based truck with indy front and solid axle rear
1/10 TA02 crawler 2.2 (was my Hummer)
1/6 Mustang
1/6 Ram rebuild...

Fiero_Man_121
07-11-2010, 12:29 PM
i was talking about nitro basher

Maxx man
07-11-2010, 03:11 PM
Id LOVE to fiero... but its just not something I need, no t4's to kill :p

I have a t-maxx laying around here doing nothing and a pede that need a makover though... anyone say 1/5 maxx and 1/8 pede?

oh and I would do a lcg treatment to my slash but track rules dont allow costom made chassis :( everything has to be factory made

edit: quick q for OS, How do you counter sink the screws? I know a few ways to do it but youres are so pretty lol

Fiero_Man_121
07-11-2010, 03:21 PM
+1 those are very cleanly done, id like to know as well

roadrunnr43
07-11-2010, 04:57 PM
get a set of counter sink bits?

Fiero_Man_121
07-11-2010, 05:45 PM
i have those but they seem to be exceptionaly well done so maybe he could tell us the bits in particular he used

OldSchoolRC
07-11-2010, 06:17 PM
Countersink bit I picked up at Sears. No idea of the specific size though. Has a standard size drive though so I can use it in either a drill, press, handheld, etc. Comes in pretty handy.

Fiero_Man_121
07-11-2010, 06:37 PM
thanks, both my bits are worn out and are a slightly different angle than the counter sunk screws i have