Blogs Dean's Blog — 19 April 2012
Hop It Up – Losi Mini 8 Update!

I’ve been a huge fan of the Losi Mini 8 since it was first released and just can’t get enough of this little buggy.  Having done a few blog entries on this little buggy already I figured it was time to get everything I had done to my well used Mini 8 in writing before I forgot and started making more changes!

 

 

Here is what I have used so far:

Xtreme Racing

3mm Carbon Fiber Front Shock Tower

3mm Carbon Fiber Rear Shock Tower

Carbon Fiber Top Plate/Brace

Carbon Fiber Battery Strap

Carbon Fiber Mud/Wheel Guards

Team Tekin

Mini Rage Brushless ESC

Castle Creations

CM26 6800Kv Brushless Motor

Losi

7.4V, 2000mAh 2S LiPo Battery

Rear Aluminum Hub Set

Front Carrier Set

Front Spindle Set

Front Suspension Mount Set

Aluminum Wheel Hex Set

Rear Hard Anodized Shock Bodies

Front Hard Anodized Shock Bodies

Rear TiNi Shock Shafts

Front TiNi Shock Shafts

Light Weight Outdrive Set

Light Weight Center Outdrive Set

Aluminum Servo Mount

Trinity

Low Friction Green Shock Seals

Starting at the front, I installed the new carrier and spindle set because they are more durable than the stock plastic pieces and because they run a bit smoother than the stock plastic pieces.  I had broken one set of the stock plastic front suspension mounts (when using a 3S LiFe battery!) so I upgraded this area with the aluminum set.  I like the aluminum set because is it more durable and because the front kick-up is easily adjustable with the included inserts.  The stock plastic wheel hexes can bind if the wheel is over tightened but the new aluminum hexes hold their form, prohibiting this from happening.  The wheel is located in the center of the hex and is held in place with a rubber o-ring, preventing it from falling out.  I also installed these on the back end.  The last front end item I replaced was the stock aluminum shock tower with a rigid graphite shock tower from Xtreme Racing.

To smooth out the suspension I went new hard anodized shock bodies and TiNi coated shock shafts.  When building the shocks I used Trinity/Epic shocks low friction shock speaks and plenty of Green Slims shock building lube.

Working on the drivetrain, I used light weight outdrives to reduce rotating mass.  When I had the front and rear diffs apart to install these I packed them full with thick and sticky green grease.

Next, I used the new aluminum servo mount.  It is great with the stock servo and many aftermarket servos too.  When I had the servo removed I took it apart and shortened the wires. NOTE: Doing this will void the warranty.

Working my way toward the back of the Mini 8, I installed a graphite top plate and battery hold down from Xtreme Racing.

Finally, to the back end!  Up first were new aluminum hubs from Losi, again, to increase durability and performance.   To keep the drivetrain free from dirt and debris I used thin graphite wheel/mud guards from Xtreme Racing.  To match the front shock tower I used a graphite tower from Xtreme racing too.

With all these chassis changes I also had to upgrade the electronics and power plant.  I decided upon a CM26 6800Kv Motor from Castle Creations and a Tekin Mini Rage esc.  I chose this combination because I was able to solder the Castle Motor directly to the solder posts on the Tekin Mini Rage ESC.  I also shortened the wires that plug into the receiver.  NOTE: Shortening these wires on your own will void the warranty.     A new battery was also in order so I went with a 2S, 2000mAh pack from Losi.

When making the all these changes I used gold lock-nuts and countersinking washers from Dynamite and titanium screws.  While this does not add much to durability or performance they look very cool.

Keep checking back as I have a new body and trick parts on the way for my trick Mini 8!

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About Author

About Dean: I am one of the Lead Contributors for RC Driver Magazine. Like Greg, my first hobby grade vehicle was a Tamiya Falcon; I began racing an RC10 shortly thereafter and have been hooked ever since. My garage of vehicles includes everything from a Losi 5ive-T and HPI Super 5SC Flux, to a Losi Micro T and almost everything in between including boats. I also help out at R/C Madness (my home away from home) in Enfield, CT, in my spare time. While I don’t race all that often anymore my Nephew, Doc, is starting to race my fleet of vehicles.

(9) Readers Comments

  1. Pingback: NEW MINI 8IGHT BUGGY FROM LOSI ! - Page 375 - R/C Tech Forums

  2. Which sway bar kit are you using?

  3. which sway bar did u use and how much money did u use on it when finished
    love the colours and if u dont mind i will want to do the exactly the same as u did!
    :)

    • Hi,
      The sway bars are pre-production… Can’t say much more than that. Feel free to copy the color scheme and style of mine.

      • thanks Dean, i was just wondering were you had bought those titanium screws from i have been searching the net but no results there are only titanium screw kits for the losi 8ight ! : (

  4. Can you tell me what size screw you used to attach the rear wheel guards? I am new to RC and bought my 8 year old son a couple of the Mini 8ight’s for his birthday. I bought some T-Bone bumpers and wheel guards, but can’t find the right size screw for the wheel guards. Thanks in advance!

  5. Wow, i’m on the right path i guess. i bought most of the hop ups when got the car but tell me about the hardware. Is there a titanium screw set by dynamite or did you mix/match a set,, did you have to get longer screws because of washers etc or are the 6mm screws long enough?? Also what size washer and locknut did you use? is that 1mm, i could only find 2mm locknuts in gold and still am curious about the size of the washers. thanks in advance if you can help me out. it’s tough to find someplace that stocks gold /blue washers and locknuts to make sure i’m buying right stuff.

    thanks again

    joefish4202001

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