The Build – Part 10
The shocks are the single most important part of the suspension of the DEST210R. Mess these up and you’ll most likely be struggling out on the track! Take you time building the shocks!
The shock pistons all look very much alike. When removing them from the tree, snap off the #1 pistons and place them near the front shock shafts. Do the same with the rears. This will ensure you don’t get them mixed up.
Carefully remove the plastic internal parts from their trees. Debur any extra plastic on the outside of the parts so they will fit properly inside the shock.
Messy-messy shock oil time. Have a clean pit space and plenty of paper towels for clean-up.
The first step is to assemble the shock pistons and shafts. Separate the front shafts (short) and rear shafts (long) as well as the front pistons (#1) and rear pistons (#2). Assemble as shown. The pistons only fit on the shaft in ONE direction so if they not going on right away, flip it over. Unfortunately, my kit was missing the M2 screws but, thankfully, I had some lying around that worked out.
Next we’ll build the ‘cartridge’ at the bottom of each shock. Here are the parts you’ll need…but wait…
…why put them in one at a time when you can feed them in like this! Just remember the direction of the ‘shouldered’ pieces and DON’T FORCE THIS ASSEMBLY INTO PLACE! If it doesn’t just slide in, most likely you have a burr on one of the plastic pieces. Check, remove and try again. Screw the cap on when you’re done.
Place a drop of shock oil onto the threads of the shock shaft assembly and gently slide it into the shock body. You don’t want to tear the o-rings in your haste to push it through. Wrap a paper towel around the shock shaft (or use a shock-holding tool if you have one) and screw the bottom eyelet on to the top of the threads.
Once you have the eyelets on, pop the pivot-balls into place. The unflanged ones go in the front shock eyelets while the flanged ones go in the rear.
Take the rubber o-rings and slip them over the top of the shock body (where the threads are). Do NOT overstretch them. Doing so may make them lose their elasticity, causing problems when you put the shock cap on.
Fill the shock to the top with oil. Move the shock shaft up and down a few times (SLOWLY) to release any air bubbles that might be lodged below the piston. Set the filled shocks aside for a few moments.
The DEST210R comes with shock bleeder caps. It’s a good idea to pre-thread the holes prior to putting the caps on the shocks. Tighten the screw about 1/2 way, then remove.
Fill the shock with oil until it is slightly crowned (or above the top of the shock). Place the cap on and slowly tighten. Make sure that the o-ring is staying positioned (as mentioned in step 103). Once the cap is fully tightened, press the shock shaft almost all the way to the top (maybe 5mm from the top – or the eyelet 5mm from the bottom of the shock). You may (or may not) see oil come out of the bleeder hole – hopefully you will see at least a little. Thread the bleeder screw all the way into the cap and clean up any residual oil. Plunge the shock shaft a few times to test. You don’t want to hear (or feel) any air bubbles in the shock. If you do, remove the cap (and bleeder screw), fill to the top and repeat this process.
Slide the shock collar on to the threaded body (flange side down) followed by the shock spring and spring retainer. I’m sure you’re aware, but short springs on the front, long springs on the rear.
Now to mount the shocks on the truck. Start by feeding the shock mount screw (the one with the larger boss at the end of the threads) through the center hole in the front shock tower. Secure in place with the locknut.
Slide the bottom of the front shock in to the arm, making sure the longer end of the shock ball is facing the rear of the truck. Secure with the 3x18mm screw.
Find the plastic upper shock mount and press it into the shock cap. The mount only fits in one direction so don’t try and force it. Slide the shock and mount over the shock screw and secure with the locknut.
The rear is a similar build. Slide the shock screw through the center hole in the tower and secure with a locknut.
Pop the plastic shock mount into the shock cap, slide it over the shock screw and secure with the other locknut. Again, the mount only fits in one direction so don’t force it.
Using the 3x12mm screw, secure the bottom of the shock into the upper hole in the arm as shown.
Stay tuned for Part 11 – Installing the electronics.