The Build – Part 2
In Part 2 of the RC10 Classic build, we jump into building an excellent rendition of the original 6-gear transmission. This transmission is simply over-complicated by todays standards and, because of this, the transmission build is a bit longer than most steps. It is a cool look at how things were done back then though!
In Step 1 I tried to make it extremely clear not to throw away any of the tools AE supplied with the RC10 Classic…and now you’ll find out why. In Step 7 you’ll need to screw in some itty, bitty 0-80 size screws into the RC10 idler gears. Ya, well, unless you’ve got an over-abundance of useless tools, you won’t have the L-wrench needed for this step. AE does supply it but, if you’re like me, I tossed out all those cheezy tools in favor of my awesome Hudy and MIP ones. Problem is, Hudy and MIP (or any other tool manufacturer in our industry) doesn’t make a 0-80 size wrench! So, yah, I had to order another 0-80 size wrench from AE. Moral of the story: don’t throw your RC10 Classic tools out. Ever.
Have some threadlock ready as you’ll need it for this step.
Because this kit is from the way-back time-machine, the bags and their contents don’t coincide 100% with the manual. You may need to open bags further down the line to get the screws you need for an earlier step.
You’ll also be dealing with alot of grease, so a couple clean towels are recommended.
We start off the transmission build by pressing the drive pin through the drive gear pivot. This fit is a bit tight and might give you a bit of grief installing, but once you get it started just make sure it’s centered in the drive gear pivot.
Slide the drive gear pivot assembly through the spine plate as shown and secure with the drive gear pivot nut. Note the orientation of the spine plate. Don’t forget to add a drop of threadlock to the drive gear pivot nut.
Slide the idler gear pivot through the spine plate, attach the 5mm washer and snap the larger e-clip into place as shown. Make sure you use the bowed e-clip and note the instructions on which side of the ‘bow’ faces out.
Press an oilite bushing into each of the axle drive gears. Make sure it seats all the way down into the gear and secure with an internal retaining clip (or snap ring). If you have a set of snap ring pliers, you can use those here to make things a bit easier. If you don’t, you can force one of the ‘open’ ends in and, carefully using your fingernail, rotate the snap ring into place.
This photos shows the snap ring fully seated. Make sure both of your gears look like this.
Slide the assembled axle drive gears onto the drive gear pivot as shown and secure with the 4-40 screw. A dab of threadlock will help keep the screws from loosening up.
Press the oilite bushings into the idler gear and secure with 4 0-80 screws. You did save that itty, bitty 0-80 L-wrench, right? If you didn’t, you’re SOL until you fine another…don’t try and force the screws into place with a different wrench.
Slide the idler gears onto the idler gear pivot and secure with an e-clip. Note the orientation of the gear…you’ll want the screw heads facing out.
Before we assemble the top shaft, we need to do a little pre-prepping of parts. Trust me, it’s makes it alot easier! Start by pressing the white diff bushing into the thrust washer with the larger hole. Press in until one side is flush. You can use your table to achieve this (as shown in the photo).
Press one of the larger oilite bushings into the bearing adapter. Make sure it is seated completely.
Finally, press the 2nd white diff bushing into the diff hub as shown. Make sure it is flush with the outside.
Now that the prepping is done, time to assemble. Slide the diff washer (with the smaller hole) onto the top shaft followed by the diff thrust bearing. Apply a small amount of black grease onto the ‘gear-side’ of the thrust bearing and slide down to the diff washer.
Apply a little more black grease onto the opposite side of the thrust bearing. Take your diff washer/diff bushing assembly and slide it onto the top shaft, the ‘flush’ side facing the thrust bearing. Slide it down and into place.
Slide the diff pinion onto the top shaft followed by your bearing adapter assembly. The diff pinion should slide over the white diff bushing and the bearing adapter should slide over the flange on the diff pinion.
Take your diff tube assembly and slide it onto the top shaft (tube-side first) and press the entire assembly together.
For the next couple of build steps, it’s easier if the top shaft is facing up. I used the transmission case half to hold the top shaft in place. Once you’re ready, slide a diff ring into place on the diff hub.
Slide the spur gear into place (over the diff hub) and squeeze a drop of white lube into all 8 holes as shown.
Drop one diff ball into each of the 8 holes. Be careful as these little suckers like to roll away and can easily be lost in the carpet.
Prep the diff spring by compressing it 2-3 times with a pair of pliers.
Drop the 2nd diff ring into place followed by the outer hub. Make sure the diff ring seats around the flange on the hub.
Drop the diff spring in place and attach the 5-40 locknut on the end. You can start with AE’s recommendation of tightening the locknut down until it is flush with the top shaft.
Ok, are you still with me? Well now we’re on to the fun part… Take your spine plate assembly and insert it into the right transmission case. Note the orientation of the spine plate in the picture.
Slide the top shaft through the aluminum motor guard and through the upper hole in the right side transmission case. You’ll also want to make sure that the bearing adapter (on the top shaft) mates correctly on the outside of the transmission case.
To help with the following step, cut a small notch in the final bearing adapter as shown. It doesn’t need to be a big notch, just something you can get a set of needlenose pliers into. Press the final oilite bushing into the bearing adapter.
Press the bearing adapter into the left transmission case half. Using all three of your hands, align and press the two transmission cases halves together.
Drop the e-clip into the bearing area and, using the notch you cut earlier, snap it into place.
Press a felt ring over both of the diff outdrive gears followed by the felt seal. A drop of CA glue (on each ‘tab’) will help keep the felt seal in place. It should only take about 10 seconds to cure.
Insert the 4-40 plain nut down inside the hole as shown…
…and secure the transmission together with the 4-40×5/8 screw. Do not over tighten, but do apply a small drop of threadlock. Now insert the 3 longer 4-40 screws and tighten them to the aluminum guard. A small dab of threadlock on these is also recommended.
The final assembly should look like this and the gears should spin somewhat freely. Time to take a breather and get a beer. Good job.
Stay tuned for part 3 – Assembling the rear bulkhead.