The Build – Part 4
Part 4 of the TLR 22SCT build includes the rear suspension and rear shock tower. Carry on.
Build Notes:
Since you’ll be building the rear drive shafts in this step, you’ll want to make sure to have some clean rags around to clean up any spare grease.
You will need a few dabs of threadlocking compound during these steps. It is suggested that you only use a VERY little dab at a time.
We start off Part 4 by building both rear drive shafts. Insert the barrel into the shaft as shown and apply a liberal amount of black grease.
Slide the axle into place followed by the drive pin. This pin should slip through both the axle and barrel (from Step 36) and sit flush in the middle of the assembly.
Screw the set screw in as shown, pinning the drive pin in place. A drop of threadlocking compound is suggested here.
Insert the bearings into the rear hub carrier. Make sure you seat the crush washer between them.
Insert a ball stud into the holes shown. Both hub carriers are the same so you don’t have to worry about a left and right.
Slide the rear drive shaft assembly through the hub carriers, keeping them in place with the drive pin. Slide the wheel hexes onto the axles and, while lining up the pins and grooves, push the hexes all the way into place.
Slide an e-clip onto the hinge pin and attach your rear hub carrier assembly to the rear suspension arms. Note the spacers; there are two 2 1mm spacers to the front and 1 2mm spacer to the rear.
A side view of your assembly. Note the longer ‘nubs’ on the suspension arm near the top of the picture. They should be facing forward, or on the same side as the ball stud (in the rear hub).
Apply a very small dab of grease to the hinge pin cup (as shown) and slide onto the inner hinge pin. I’ve done this to keep the hinge pin cup in place during the next couple steps.
Slide the hinge pin assembly through a pair of 0.5mm spacers, then through the suspension arm. Apply another little drop of grease to a second hinge pin cup and slide it on the hinge pin.
Press the plastic toe block insert into the aluminum housing. Insert the screws through the bottom of the chassis and attach the hinge pin block (only screw in about 2-3 turns. Slide the 2 degree shim between the aluminum toe block insert and the chassis and tighten down the screws. Make sure the insert stays square with the assembly.
Slide the two suspension arm assemblies into place as shown and capture with the rear aluminu toe block. Slide the tab from the rear motor guard into the slot (between the chassis and rear toe plate) and, using the M2x6mm screw, secure the assembly. Do not overtighten.
Insert two ball studs into the rear camber block as shown.
Attach the camber block to the rear battery capture tray…
…and attach that assembly to the chassis as shown.
Attach the upper shock mounts to the rear shock tower using the holes per the manual. Note the direction of the tower.
Attach the tower to the chassis.
Build a pair of rear camber links as shown. Then length of 92mm is a good starting point.
Pop the rear camber link into place as shown.
Part 5 – Assembling the transmission.
