PRODUCT FEATURED
Arrma Granite Voltage- https://amzn.to/2SwkAYB
Spektrum DX5C Radio System- https://amzn.to/2KVzBk2
Castle Creations Brushless SW4 with Motor- https://amzn.to/2rivPbg
Tactic TSX45 Servo- https://amzn.to/2Ud49St
MaxAmps.com 6500mAh battery- https://amzn.to/2RyYe8J

RC DRIVER SHIRTS & MERCH: https://teespring.com/stores/rc-driver-swag-store
RC GEAR WE USE: https://www.amazon.com/shop/rcdriver_online

Pro-Line Racing Discount Code: RCDRIVER10
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#ArrmaGranite #ArrmaVoltage #RCDriver

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ITEMS USED
Many of the projects shown here are listed in our Amazon Shop, along with all of the RC equipment, tools and supplies we use on a regular basis: https://www.amazon.com/shop/rcdriver_online

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SERVO INSPECTION

A few basic areas are commonly overlooked in servo installs. Servos are damaged from time to time and need to be replaced, so this process is one of the more common things in the wide world of RC wrenching. Some would say the servo is the hardest working part in your RC vehicle, so they take a lot of beating and often offer the possibility of improvement for the average hobbyist. When installing a new servo, the first thing you should do is connect the servo to your receiver, power everything on, and center up the trims and sub trims. Why? So that when you install the servo, the output is in the center of its travel and ready to be installed. You can also take this time to make sure the new servo goes the same direction as your old servo. Most are the same, but not all, so double-checking this before you install it can save a bit of time later.

Once the servo is installed, make sure it has the same travel as your old servo. Slowly turn the steering all the way left and all the way right. Watch the servo arm and listen carefully. If the servo stops before you have turned the steering wheel, or stick, completely, you’ll need to make some adjustments. If the servo hums or buzzes at full steering, you’ve got a bit of a problem. The same is true if the servo does not get the full range of the steering. Higher end radios will have EPA, or travel adjustments that allow independent adjustment of the left and right steering output. This allows you to fine-tune the exact output of each side of the steering. Travel can be decreased or increased to meet the specific needs of the vehicle’s steering design and the servo installed. Some radios do not have independent travel adjustments, and only have “dual rate” that limits left and right at the same time. It is better to have limited steering rather than having the servo over- driving the steering. The overdrive will cause damage to the servo and can cause operational problems for the vehicle’s speed control as well. If you do not have a radio system with these adjustments, it should be the next item on your upgrade wish list. Do some basic test runs before you really hit the bricks. Make sure the new servo is not drawling too much power and causing issues. It is common for upgraded servos to brown-out the speed control’s internal BEC and make the radio system act up or cause basic servo operation problems. Be prepared to add a receiver capacitor (Glitch Buster), or possibly an external BEC in some cases. Also, it is bad to rapidly work your steering back and forth repeatedly with the vehicle in the air or on the ground. This is an un-natural speed of input and operation on your servo, and is hard on everything.

Find New Servos Here: https://bit.ly/41rs8Pg

SPEEDO SWAP OUT

Electronic speed control replacements are also commonplace. Race trends have many of us wanting the newest gear and often we are on our way up from ready-to-run electronics, into more tune-able and powerful aftermarket items. Virtually every speed control manufacturer uses a slightly different calibration, or setup process for their product. The items are not plug-in-and-go, there is a one- time basic calibration or setup that must be done before you drive the vehicle. Even if you plug everything in and it seems to function correctly, stop and do the setup. Just because it seems OK does not mean the speed control has all the correct information from the radio system. Throttle points, brake points and neutral points are all important factors in your throttle and brakes working as expected. Instruction manuals are your friend. Read them, and check the manufacturer’s website for any service updates or more recent versions of the manuals. Several manufacturers have so much information on their product that none is included with the speed control. It’s all on the manufacturer’s website. So be sure that before you go the track, or head out for your test day that you have pre-loaded your advanced manuals or have internet where you are headed. If you need to seek the advice of experts, bring your manual, they will need it.

Speed Control Options: https://bit.ly/3nDIgzy

MOTOR UP

Perhaps the most commonly replaced electronic part in the modern RC car is the motor. Motors have gotten significantly more reliable but folks are always looking for more power, or changing motors to suit specific class rules. So, what are we looking for? Basically everything. The motor’s power wires are as important as any other part, so when switching to a more powerful motor, make sure the ESC can handle it and that your wiring or motor connectors are up to the task. Gearing is next. Different speed motors require different gearing. That gearing difference can be drastic when going from spec motors to mod motors. If you have never replaced a motor before, be aware of the ins and outs of proper gear mesh and how to set it. Improper gear mesh is one of the number one newbie mistakes seen at hobby shops across the nation. Don’t be that guy. Read up on proper gear mesh and take your time setting it. Also, motor mounting screws are 3mm in almost all 1/10-scale vehicle platforms. Even if every other screw in your vehicle is an SAE standard screw, the motor screws are going to be a 3mm metric thread and have a metric hex size to accompany them. Make sure you have the right screws and wrenches to install your new motor.

Brushless Motors: https://bit.ly/3Ba5S1G

WRAP-UP

Those are three common upgrades that each have several easy places to overlook. Now you know what to look for and how to avoid the basic problems that many of us have encountered. Take your time, do a bit of research, and you should have a positive upgrading experience.

By Charlie Suangka

*Notice: Some of our articles, videos and descriptions may contain affiliate links or coupon codes, which means that if you click on or use one of the product links/ codes, we may receive a small commission. This helps support the website and social media channels and allows us to continue to produce content.

The post How To Install New Electronics in Your RC Vehicle appeared first on RC Driver.

By Scot Donaldson

The post How To Install Your Servos Properly appeared first on RC Driver.

ITEMS USED
Many of the projects shown here are listed in our Amazon Shop, along with all of the RC equipment, tools and supplies we use on a regular basis: https://www.amazon.com/shop/rcdriver_online

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SETTING SPUR GEAR AND PINION/ CLUTCH BELL MESH
Setting the gear mesh for your motor or engine is as easy as it is important. You’ll want a few tools to make things easier:

ELECTRIC-POWERED

Proper size Allen wrench (5/64-in., 2.0mm or 2.5mm) or #1 Phillips screwdriver for motor screws.
0.050-in., 1/16-in. or 1.5mm Allen wrench for pinion set screws

Nitro or Gasoline-powered:
2.5mm or 3mm Allen wrench

ELECTRIC

To set your electric motor’s gear mesh, screw in your motor screws to the point that they’ll hold the motor in place while you can still swing it toward or away from the spur gear. Once these screws are  installed, attach the pinion to the output shaft of the motor. Check to make sure the pinion gear is centered on the face of the spur gear, adjusting the location in or out as needed. Once everything is centered up, tighten the pinion set screw down. Now it is time to set the gear mesh itself.

Slide the motor toward the spur gear until the gears begin to mesh with each other. You need to slide the motor and pinion toward the spur, rocking the spur gear to ensure that there’s some backlash between the gears. Some is good, more, not-so-much. You’ll want to have just a slight amount of movement between the pinion and spur to ensure the motion is not bound up. Once you’re happy with the gap, tighten the motor screws down com- pletely. Before you reinstall the gear cover, rotate the spur gear by quarter rotations to verify that the gear mesh is set to accom- modate a spur gear that isn’t perfectly round.

If you’re having problems getting the gap set properly there’s an age-old tip to ensure proper gear mesh each and every time. You can insert a piece of standard notebook paper between the pinion and spur gear before you slide the motor into place, squeezing the paper between the pinion and spur gear. Tighten the motor screws down, pull the paper out and you should have a perfect gear mesh each and every time.

NITRO/GAS

While there are a lot of similarities between setting the mesh on a clutch bell and spur gear and pinion and spur there are some basic differences. Unlike an electric car or truck, an engine mount will generally be bolted to the main chassis with four screws. As such you have to really make sure things don’t shift when tightening everything down. You can use the same tech- nique here as with electric cars, even down to using the paper technique to set the depth of the gear mesh. There are two things you need to do as you bolt everything into place. The first is to use a small amount of thread locking compound on the screws that hold the engine mounts in place. These vehicles see a lot more vibration and abuse than their electric counter- parts which can cause the engine mount screws to back out. Thread lock will help prevent this. The second is to use a cross- pattern when tightening the screws, just like you would on your full-size car’s tires. This ensures that everything mounts squarely.

RING AND PINION GEARS

Setting the mesh between the ring and pinion gears inside your gearboxes on a 4WD SCT or 1/8-scale buggy or truggy can dramatically extend the life of your gears. There are two ways to adjust this mesh, both at the ring gear and at the pinion gear, but the method of setting this mesh is similar. You’ll use a variety of shims to set the depth of the pinion gear compared to the ring gear. By adding shims between the pinion gear and the bearing that supports it inside the gearbox you’ll be moving the pinion gear closer to the ring gear for more tooth engagement. Removing shims here will reduce the tooth engagement which could actually improve efficiency slightly. Likewise you can also change the position of the ring gear in relation to the pinion gear. Adding or removing shims between the ring-side of the diff and the support bearing will move the ring gear closer or further away from the pinion gear.

IMPORTANT DO’S AND DON’TS

• If your pinion gear set screw loosens up or is stripped replace it immediately.
• Less is more when it comes to thread locking compound.
• Don’t mix gears of different pitch, this doesn’t end well.
• You can extend the life of your ring and pinion gears by coating the gears lightly with Team Losi Racing Great Grease or Tamiya Anti-Wear Grease.
• Pinions and clutch bells wear out. When they do they can damage the spur gear too. When in doubt swap it out.

CONCLUSION

Setting your gear mesh is super-easy once you know what you’re doing. It will extend the life of your gears and help you get more power and speed out of your car or truck. The more you pay attention to the details, the better your overall experience will be in the long run.

Words By Scott Donaldson

The post How to Set the Gear Mesh on Your RC Car or Truck appeared first on RC Driver.

ITEMS USED
Many of the projects shown here are listed in our Amazon Shop, along with all of the RC equipment, tools and supplies we use on a regular basis: https://www.amazon.com/shop/rcdriver_online

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1. There is an RC vehicle/niche for everyone
One of the best aspects about the radio control hobby in general is there is something for everyone to enjoy. Helicopters, drift cars, semi trucks are just some examples of how diverse this hobby can be. Pretty much everyone I know into R/C is into a different niche, but we can all get together and spend some time showing our vehicles or skills and generally have an all around great time. Personally I love building just as much, if not more than driving and I know some hardcore racers that are the complete opposite. Try to find what piques your interest, and if you have been in one R/C segment for awhile, don’t be afraid to branch out and try something new.

2. Safety First! RC =/= Toys
While some consider R/C “toys for grownups,” they are far from it. Radio control vehicles can be as dangerous, or as safe as you make it. We have behemoth 40 lb 1/5th scale trucks that can hit 40MPH in the blink of an eye, or some airplanes that have props spinning at the speed of sound. As long as proper safety measures are being used, a trouble free experience can be had. We have all read the stories of drones crashing into people in major cities, but often this is simply a case of an uninformed pilot. Safety must be observed everywhere, from soldering to charging high powered lithium batteries. I find radio control is great to introduce to younger people, but parental guidance is heavily suggested.

3. There is more cost associated than just the RTR/RTF package
Great, so you bought your very first RC car or aircraft. The box says it comes with everything you need, so you should be good to go right? Well, yes and no. Often all inclusive kits come with very inexpensive components that ill get you up and running, but sometimes aren’t ideal if you plan to stick around. If the vehicle is battery powered, you may want an extra pack to keep out there or a better charger to charge the batteries faster. Leave some headroom for high quality tools as well, they pay off in the long run by not messing up your screws and other parts (and less frustration = better experience). And of course there are wearable items like tires, clutches and more that just plan need to be replaced over time.

4. RC Vehicles Break Sometimes, but don’t return it!
In hobby shops something we see time and time again is someone who buys a nice new expensive rig, and a part breaks so they pack it up and try to return it. While I understand you may have just spent a lot of money, but something that makes hobby grade radio control vehicles much better than their cheaper toy counterparts is that every part can be replaced (usually for cheap). You have to remember that we live in a day where 100 mph speeds are achievable out of the box, so of course something will break when you crash into the curb at full speed after doing 8 cartwheels in the air. You may think that just ground based vehicles fall under this category, but aircraft can be repaired just as easily. Many airplanes now are made out of high quality foams that can be repaired with every day CA (or super glue), and quad copter parts are readily available from nearly every manufacturer. Take the time and learn how to repair your vehicle, it will save you hundreds of dollars and countless headaches.

5. Plan to do some research
As mentioned earlier, there are so many facets to this hobby, that you may get information overload when you decide what to buy first. You are on the right track if you are reading this article, but be prepared to read tons of material. Obviously there is a large difference between aircraft and cars, but it goes beyond that. If you are interested in building a scale off-roader with working winches, you will need to focus in different areas then an on-road racer. Thankfully there is tons of information online check out our RCDriver YouTube channel for some nice tips to get you going. Read user reviews and gather all the information you can before taking the plunge. An even better option is to head to your local hobby shop if you have one, they have tons of hands on experience and can help steer you in the direction you need. Often they have demo vehicles as well for you to try if you are still having difficulty deciding.

6. Stick to the name brand stuff
While it may be tempting to hop online and order something on the slow boat from overseas, plan on entering this hobby with one of the larger better known brands. These companies have done all of the hard work for you already, worked out the bugs and also offer life-saving support usually just a call or an email away. Not to mention with the name brands, there usually is a gigantic aftermarket support from countless companies. My first “real” RC was an old HPI Savage and because I had such a great experience it really turned me onto the hobby in general. Make it easy on yourself, even if it costs a few extra bucks.

7. Electric or Nitro?
All radio control vehicles run on either electric or nitro. Electric is the more popular choice as of late because they offer less maintenance and are a truly plug and play experience. Nitro gives you the benefit of having a real combustion engine and the sound and smell is an experience like no other. For your first RC, I would recommend an electric model because there are less things to worry about. Nitro is great and all, but it adds another layer of complexity with tuning, fuel types, and glow plugs. One of the best things is nowadays almost all vehicles have more power than you need, whether it be electric or nitro, so don’t fret too much over your decision!

8. Don’t be limited with your surroundings
No matter what environment or location you live in, there is fun to be had with radio control. Don’t feel limited if you are in the concrete jungle of an urban environment. Often there are clubs that race indoors, go drifting together, or just bash around outside. In every form, whether is be surface or air there are also micro vehicles that can be used indoors, even in small apartments. I often take out some of my mini drones and fly them in my small workplace just to unwind and have some fun. I have even seen people make trick obstacle courses from everyday items to run their micro rock crawlers. They even have micro boats if you want to get wet and use that small stream nearby, the opportunities are endless!

9. Plan to get down and dirty with maintenance
Radio control in all forms require maintenance to help extend the life of the lifetime of your vehicles. I find this especially apparent in ground based vehicles. Starting with my off-road trucks, I inspect each one after any heavy use to make sure the drivetrain still spins freely and there are no apparent broken parts. It goes beyond that as shocks may lose oil over time, or differentials need to be services and re greased. Something I found quite remarkable is how similar RC cars are to our full scale counterparts. I actually learned how full scale vehicle’s suspension setups worked from my experience tuning RC cars. Just like real cars, some other components like wheel bearings are good to inspect. This isn’t just limited to cars, boats and aircraft need some constant care as well to make sure everything is running perfectly. I am sure this goes without saying, but if you plant on running your monster trucks in dirty environments, be prepared to clean your vehicle afterwards. Your truck will thank you later with less wear and tear on many components.

10. This hobby will provide the most fun you have had in ages!
I just realized that my list has a lot of scary information, but getting into radio control is one of the most fun things you can do. There is something to be said to heading out to your favorite trail and bringing an RC Jeep along with you to run the trails. Just take a look on YouTube to see some of the crazy builds and adventures people go on. Not to mention if you have any nearby clubs, RC peeps are some of the nicest people you will meet. Everyone is willing to lend a hand to teach you about your vehicle, how to wrench on them, and how to use them. All of the information I have learned over the years has come from our great community and some of the most fun times I have had is out with buddies racing or bashing my trucks.

WRAP UP
I hope this list helps out and provides direction in your newly discovered hobby. Keep at it and remember that radio control is a world of endless possibilities, your mind is the limit. I get excited when I see people making custom vehicles with 3D printers and designing upgrades right at home on their computer. RC has never been better, so what are you waiting for?

The post 10 Things You Need to Know Before You Get Into RC appeared first on RC Driver.

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WHAT WE USED
Pro-Line 1966 Ford Bronco Body
Part: 3488-00
Link to buy: http://amzn.to/2DKrENq

Pro-Line Trail Cage
Part: 6297-00
Link to buy: http://amzn.to/2GdbJWi

Pro-Line Pro Pulls
Part: 6050-00
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Tamiya Camel Yellow Paint
Part: PS-19
Link to buy: http://amzn.to/2Dye8t2

Tamiya Black Paint
Part: PS-5
Link to buy: http://amzn.to/2BsBBK0

Tamiya White Paint
Part: PS-1
Link to buy: http://amzn.to/2Bs8Mh2

Tamiya Side Cutters
Part: 74093
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Tamiya Knife
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By: Charlie Suangka

GREASY SEAL
The first thing that should be addressed is the bearing. To really get down to this, you’ll want to take the motor apart. If you’re not a fan of taking your motor apart, that’s okay. You can get there by doing these steps to just the outside of the motor. Most rear bearings are covered. If not, these same techniques can be used there. If the motor is new, no cleaning or oiling is really needed. If it’s a used motor, start with the freshly cleaned and oiled bearing. Put a thin layer of water resistant grease like CowRC’s Udder Butter along the back and front sides of the bearing and the pinion shaft. Don’t go crazy on the back side bearing. Just put a thin layer across the bearing face and where it meets the rotor surfaces. Since you have the motor apart, you can also run a thin layer across the rest of the surfaces that meet, between the end bell and the stator, or around the edges of any rings and sleeves, again just a thin layer. You want to smear it on very lightly with your finger or a rag, just leaving a haze of the grease on the surfaces.

SURFACE SEAL
Reassemble the motor and give it a nice wipe down with a clean rag to get most of the excess off the outside of the motor. The next step is to physically seal the visible outside seams of the motor from the elements. Using fancy waterproof tape is an option but good old fashioned electrical tape, and even duct tape, work well enough for most. In a pinch, you can use decal material cut into strips. We’ve all got that bag of decals we’ve been saving for who knows what, right? Stretchy decals can be extremely resistant to the water. Again, you don’t have to go nuts, just a single or double clean wrap around the seams of the endbells and center sleeves. Make sure you stretch the tape tightly and it’s sticking to the motor. If not, clean the motor’s external surfaces so the tape can adhere. The tape is doing most of the work here. Leave the sensor harness plug for last. We’ll get to that next!

SENSOR SEALING
At this stage, you’ll want to have your wires onto the motor as it’s basically ready for install. For the sensor plug, you can use some sealants or silicone, but that can be very messy to remove later. Something that works awesome for sealing that most of you can get from any hobby shop are decals or double-sided tape. The double-sided tape should be flexible and have great sticking qualities. The cushion of the tape allows you to work it into the corners and gaps of the motor’s rear section. The endbell caps and steps can all get a nice strip of tape along each seam. Use 1mm strips and go along each edge and seam. You can add more protection with another layer of decal or electrical tape on top of the base layer. It’s best to completely cover the sensor plug as well as the harness around all edges. Using thin strips of decal or double-sided tape along the base and top edge and then going back over with a larger piece will typically work the best. You are essentially sealing a seal. It’s good to get at least a half an inch or so up the sensor harness. The wires are flexible and can work the seals loose so pay close attention to the tape at the ends. This same basic technique can be done to the ESC’s sensor plug as well.

WRAP-UP
It may not be pretty, but this “technique” will keep your motor alive a lot longer. On final install, apply a generous dab of marine grease to the front side bearing, enough that it gets all the way out to the pinion. The pinion shaft is where most of the water gets in so the grease helps stop the water! Also, much of it will be spun out of there after the first few blips of throttle. After a while, you’ll want to tear the motor apart and inspect it. This is why using tape instead of sealants is great. Rebuilding and servicing are much simpler. You may find there are no signs of water in your motor. If so, well done! If you do find water entered the motor, try to trace where the leak came from, so that when you reseal your motor again you can fix the issue. Note, these tips explained here are not guaranteed, you run the risk of voiding any warranties and you are completely responsible for taking the risk. But equipment risk is part of the fun for some so happy puddle hunting, folks!

The post Seal up your sensored motor appeared first on RC Driver.

Product: Pro-Spline HD Axles (for the Traxxas 2wd Slash)
By: Pro-Line Racing
Part Number: 6273-01
Price: $62.99
Link to buy: http://amzn.to/2qA29nQ

Notice: Some of our articles, videos and descriptions contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, we may receive a small commission. This helps support the website and social media channels and allows us to continue to produce content. Thank you for the support!

The post Upgrade Your Traxxas Slash Axles – Pro-Line Racing Pro-Spline HD Axle Install appeared first on RC Driver.