It all started with an old comp crawler body from 2009. The crawler class evolved so fast that these kind of bodies have long been obsolete, but Parma put a cool scale rock buggy look to theirs and I had one around that I figured I would use for something someday. It occurred to me the Arrma cars have skinny chassis, so it might fit on my Granite monster truck which isn’t as much a monster since I lowered it down and put stadium truck tires on it. It seemed like the plan might work, but I had no idea how it would turn out or if the results would be worthwhile. So let’s see how I ended up at this point.

1 The first thing I had to do was trim the body out with my Lexan scissors to see if it would fit. At first it looked like a no go and I was ready to pack it in, but this is where I decided I was going to make it work. I had to cut off the rear portion behind the wheel wells to allow the body to sit on top of the rear shock tower. The window mask and the headlight and grill decals that came with this body have been lost. I could have easily masked the windows off and painted a grill, but I was looking at the molded in roll bars and I got an idea. I decided to cut out the windows and I also cut out a grill area that I will fill with screen later for a more scale look. To cut them out, I scored them with my hobby knife and then bent them until they cracked out.

2 The front body mount presented the next problem. The body was sitting about an inch and half too high, and the body mount was bottomed out. Again I was ready to give in, but I had gone too far to turn back. I looked at the points where the body mount adjusts. They were much more narrow than the actual mount, which is good for this body. So I found a couple of body posts left over from an Axial kit and dropped them in at the adjust- ment point. I had to open up the hole for a body clip to accept the pin. Now the front drops right down to the chassis, and the more narrow mounting point allowed me to move the body back, which saved my behind later.

3 I didn’t necessarily have to get inventive with the rear body mount. I could have just removed the adjustment collar and it would have sat right down on the rear shock tower, but I did not want to have to trim the body mount in case this didn’t work out. I also didn’t want the body mount sticking out. So I got the idea to put the adjustment collars on top of the body, to hold the body down and also create a wing mount. I initially pictured a larger 1/10-scale wing, but I came across this little 1/18-scale wing that matched the width of the rear of the body and thought would give it a more scale look, especially if i made some side dams out of scrap Lexan.

4 In my head I pic- ture this body being just flat black, but this is a painting article so I decided to do something. One trend I’ve been seeing in the full scale auto- motive world is flat on gloss black paint schemes, that’s what I tried to create here by painting on the inside and outside. So I just masked off the rear deck, roll bars, and bottom floor pans with masking tape, using my hobby knife to trim them. Then I sprayed the entire inside with Faspearl Charcoal. I used the char- coal rather black so the effect would be a little more pronouced for pictures.

5 The pearl color will need to be backed with FasKrome, which is also the same color I planned to paint the areas I masked off. So I first removed the masking tape and then laid several coats of FasKrome. At this point I also painted the wing and side dams. These will not be getting a backing color, so I laid few coats, let it dry, and then laid a couple more heavy coats.

6 Now it is time to start cutting the graphics in the overspray film on the outside of the body. I used a piece of masking tape to make my lines and give my knife an edge to help guide it. Be very careful not to remove the overspray film with the tape. Whenever possible I put the tape on the section that was to be removed. I then sprayed the inside of the body with FasBlack, to make the FasKrome opaque, and for a uniform look. Then I sprayed in the graphics on the outside.

7 I did a full tutorial on mounting and detailing Parma’s interior in the Jan ‘16 issue. For this one I folded up a piece of paper to find the inside dimensions of the body. I then roughed out the shape from the interior, test fitted, and trimmed as necessary. I masked off the visor inside the helmet, and filled the rest with FasRed. Then I removed the mask, and filled in the visor with FasBlack. I didn’t want to detail anything, I wasn’t planning a full-on scaler, so I just sprayed it with the black from the outside. The steering wheel was made with 14 gauge wire.

8 Almost done! Now I just need to put it all together. I used servo tape to attach the side dams to the wing, and on the back of the hel- met to attach it to the interior. The interior came with Velcro to attach it, but I don’t plan on removing the interior so I just used servo tape to attach that to the body too. I got the screen for the grill from a strainer I picked up at the dollar store, for a buck. I cut it to size and then glued it on the edges with Shoe Goo.

WRAP UP
When I started this project, I thought it might come out like some goofy fantasy vehicle, but I liked the idea of the challenge to make it work. As it came together I started to realize it actually has a semi scale thing going on, and ended up being a lot more convinc- ing than I ever expected. I’ve been meaning to change the stock body on the Granite, and there is a plethora of 1/10-scale truck bodies out there that would have dropped right on, but I like this better, because I haven’t seen anyone else with one, and I think it looks cool. Best of all, I know the effort and thought that went into making it all work, and that is something to be proud of!

LINK
Parma parmapse.com, (440) 237-8650.

The post Get Creative, Get Painting- Monster Truck Turned Buggy appeared first on RC Driver.

1 I wanted to take this to the track, so I needed a light weight race body. I went with Parma’s Speedflo 2.0 body, because it is a great handling body. I started by trimming it with my Lexan scissors. I love this thin race Lexan because it is super easy to cut. But be careful, sometimes sharp Lexan scissors will zip through it like wrapping paper. To cut out the vent holes, I scored the edges with my hobby knife and then pushed back and forth until it popped out. There is really no need to go too deep with the knife on this body, so be careful with the pressure. Don’t forget to cut out the number plates and fins. It’s easy to lose them in the scraps. Once it was all trimmed I sat it on my chassis. I had to trim about 1/8 inch off the nose, and open up the back area to clear the bumper. Once it was sitting the way I liked, I mark the tops of the body post with a permanent marker. Then I opened up the holes with a body reamer.

2 After trimming the body I wash it out with dish soap and warm water to remove any residual oils. Then I start masking by applying the included window mask. To apply these I like to tack one corner into place and hold it there with my thumbnail while I pull the mask along one of the long edges usually the bottom to line it up. Letting the mask hang free from the body, I start working my way back and forth to rub it down. Then I go over it with the back of my fingernail. Some small bubbles are fine, but make sure you push out all the ones along the edge.

3 After studying some short course schemes looking for a common theme, I came to the conclusion that they all have very basic graphics and it’s more about the logos. So I decided the easiest way to mask a basic scheme is with masking tape. I started with some FasKolor 6mm tape. The tape is just flexible enough that you can pull some mild curves into it. I started at the at tip of the rear and pulled a gradual curve to the bottom of the front wheel well. Then, about and inch forward, I pulled another line just above that, to widen the line. I filled in the inside with more tape. Then I took 10 mm tape, and leaving a small line between the mask, I pulled it in a curve following the bottom line. I then finished by filling the remainder of the bottom with tape. I did the same for the hood, but I had to cut the corners with my hobby knife.

4 I’m not quite done masking, but first I have to lay the background color. This is a little different than how I normally do things, but it makes sense when using tape rather than liquid mask. I just lay two nice even coats of the FasPearl Charcoal. Normally, I would back the pearl color with FasKrome, but that will not be necessary since my next color will be silver.

5 After allowing the paint to dry, I removed the tape from the lower areas and the center of the hood. I wanted to spice it up with a splash of color, so I used these precut drip graphics from Parma. First, you’ll need to weed out the excess material from the mask. I’m not a fan of an outline around a drip, but I realized you can leave the outline in place if you want it to look like a thicker substance like paint blobs or you can remove the outline if you want it to look thinner, like water. I wanted a water effect, so I removed the outline. Last month I experimented with using masking tape as lift off tape with mixed results. Since this is a more basic graphic than flames, I feel the included lift off tape works best for this body. Because of the curve I was following, I had to get a little creative with my placement. Once the blokes were in place I drop shadowed the under sides with some FasBlack. I just start at the tip, inside the graphic. I the pull it out toward the edge, and do a quick line toward the thin part. Then I fill it with FasPearl Silver, which will need to be backed with FasKrome, so I hit the Charcoal while I’m at it.

6 This will be a quick step. After allowing the previous coats at least 15 minutes to dry, I just remove the masking tape from the stripe and fill it with two even coats of FasPearl Gold. Of course that will need to be backed with the FasKrome as well.

7 Now I can remove the mask from the splash. I wanted mine to look like water so I went with a blue theme.  To help give the splash some dimension and the illusion of a light reflecting the glossy surface, I took a fine paint brush, dipped it in some FasWhite, and pulled some thin lines across the top of each blob. I push hard at first and then pull away to create a taper. Then to give the blobs some depth, I shade around the edges with FasBlue. Since the line of sparkle and drop shadow insinuates the light coming from above, I put heavy emphasis on the bottom with the darker shade of blue. I then fill it in with a couple of coats of FasFluorescent Blue. The fluorescent color will need to be backed with white, so I fill the entire inside of the body with FasWhite for a nice uniform look. I also spray the number plates in white.

8 You can now breathe a sigh of relief because the painting is done! All that’s left is the fin- ishing details. After allowing the paint a good amount of time to dry, I remove the window mask. Then I remove the overspray film. Apply the included decals, which is made easy, since they are already cut out for you. There is a piece of double stick tape in the back I use to attach the number plates. I opted to leave the fins off. If you should decide to mount them, just make two small holes on the bottom. Then hold them in place before marking the holes. Then attach them with the included nylon. Now we’re done and ready to race!

WRAP UP
With this one I wanted to take a basic short course style scheme and spice it up a bit with some precut mask. I feel I pulled this off. I did, however, have some trouble with the drop shadows. I was using some old paint, and the passenger’s side came out good, but then it started to sputter on the driver’s side. I should have stopped to clean out my airbrush right then, but I was in a hurry and decided to push through to the hood, where I met with disaster when paint suddenly came spurting out. The lesson there is, don’t rush it! Also, fresh paints and a clean airbrush really help. Take your time and practice a little before you start on the body, and you should get results as good as or better than mine!

LINK
Parma parmapse.com, (440) 237-8650.

The post Hyper10 SC Gets a Splash appeared first on RC Driver.

Parma has so many of these muscle car bodies for short course trucks for me to cover, that I’m kind of running low on unique ideas. I’ve done stock cars, a drag car, hot rods, etc. After pondering this one, I realized I’ve missed the most obvious idea. These bodies open up a whole new option for your off -road chassis. An on-road conversion! Companies such Pro- Line offer short course tires for the street. You could really take it all the way and limit your suspension travel, add some thicker shock oil, stiffer springs, taller gearing, and maybe throw a 3S brushless system in, and really build a street burner. To get a street custom look I thought it should be somewhat basic like just a two tone scheme, but I threw in a tribal graphic to spice it up, and then FasKolor Faschange paint really gives it a look that screams custom! Let’s see how it came out.

1 To start off I trim the body on the molded-in body lines with a pair of Lexan scissors. There is a marking for a cutout for the front I left that in place. This body is designed to be a general fit for most short course bodies, so you will have to get it lined up and mark where you will make your holes for your body mounts. I line up the rear wheels in the wheel wells because the wheelbase changes at the front due the caster in the front end. The front bumper was barely pushing out the front end, so I just made a slot where it was hitting, rather than cut out the front end. Once everything was lined up, and I adjusted the height of the body mounts, I marked the tops of the post, and made my holes with a body reamer.

2 After getting the body trimmed out and test fitted, I scrubbed it out with a little dish soap and some water to remove any residual oils and shavings left over from mounting. I start masking by applying the liquid mask with a foam brush. I’ve tried airbrushing, foam roller, and bristle brushes to apply liquid mask, a cheap foam brush works best. I laid two thick coats, giving it a couple of hours between coats to dry, and then I left it overnight after the final coat.

3 I wanted to do something more than the basic two-tone to really give it that custom look. So I doodled up a tribal graphic with a pencil. What I did here was leave slight gaps to insinuate the lines overlapping, then I made the spacing between the lines similar, so it kind of plays with the eyes. After I had a graphic I liked, I traced it over with a marker so I would have a reverse image on the back side of the paper. I then trimmed it out and tacked it to the body with masking tape. I traced the image on the outside of the body, with the ultra fine tip of my detail marker. To make the line that separates the colors I used a piece of tape as a guideline. This allowed me to bend it to the curves of the body, while still keeping a straight line.

4 With my graphic all laid out, I start cutting my graphics in the liquid mask with a hobby knife. When I drew the graphic I purposely made one particular line that would separate the colors. I started by cutting that line, then the graphics below the line. I also had to cut out the bumpers, the bottom of the grill, taillights, and the emblem in the rear. I removed the mask from the background, leaving the graphics and details behind. I filled the area with FasPearl Charcoal. I used Charcoal rather than black to keep with the custom theme. I backed it with FasKrome to make it more opaque and add sparkle.

5 Next I removed the mask from the graphic area. I also cut out the bit of graphic above the line and cut the top part of the line that basically wraps around the body. After removing the mask from those areas, I filled them with a couple of light coats of FasPearl Blue. The pearl color also needs to be backed with FasKrome, but after the next step.

6 I then remove the mask from the bumpers. Next I cut out the grill, leaving the headlights, also the door handles, window trim, taillight trim and the rear emblem, and fill those areas with FasKrome, while also backing all the blue areas with the FasKrome at the same time.

7 Now I can remove the big chunk of mask from the top half of the body. I laid a couple of light coats of the FasChange Blue. Getting the right amount of this can be tricky. Too much and it will be a solid pearl blue, too little and you won’t really see it. The effect is more pronounced on darker colors such as black, and harder to see on white. Since I will be backing it with white, I think I could have gone a little heavier. After I backed with white, I removed the mask from the headlights and shaded along the bottom.

8 Almost done! Just filling the details now. I removed the mask from the taillights and filled them with FasPearl Red. I used the Pearl so they would catch the light. Then when I backed the red with FasKrome, I also filled in the rest of the headlights with the FasKrome.

9 To get a flat finish, I paint on the outside of he body and use the overspray film as a mask. I cut and removed the overspray film from the grill and spoiler, and then filled those areas with FasBlack. I also like to back the whole inside with black for a uniform look that that just looks so much better through the windows. All that I have left to do is remove the window mask, and the remaining overspray film. This is by far my favorite part!

WRAP UP
I typically avoid paint jobs with a lot of white. It just looks too vanilla to me, but the Faschange paints turn white into some- thing really spectacular. I wish photos really showed the effect, but it is something you almost have to catch in motion. I could have laid the Faschange a little thicker on the white. I typically  spray it over black, because that is how you get the most pro- nounced effect. It works well over any opaque color, but gets lost in the pearl colors. The Faschange is available in different colors, so you can experiment with many color combinations. Try it!

The post 68 Muscle Street Custom, Custom Paint appeared first on RC Driver.

Words And Photos By David Harrington

I’ve watched short course trucks evolve from an entry level, semi-scale, basher class to a full-on race class packed with serious competition. As the class evolved, we saw the bodies evolve from scale representations of full size models, to slick, aerodynamic bodies swiss cheesed with vent holes to prevent parachuting. While I do enjoy racing my short course trucks and prefer to drive with a race body on the track, I never forget it was the scale aspect of short course trucks that made me say, “I gotta have it!” which brings me to this month’s article. Parma released their version of the Ford Raptor body early on in the short course game and really went for the scale aspect of it, even including a spare tire in the bed. I thought it would be fun to revisit this body and give it the custom truck look of something you might see driving down the road. Something that I’ve seen on full size vehicles and have been wanting to try on an RC is metal panels with rivets. I’ve seen the process demonstrated in full scale. The problem is reversing the process and shrinking it to 1/10-scale without losing the effect. This is something I’ve procrastinated with for a while, but I felt the theme would be perfect for this body, so I just went for it with no practice. I figure we all could learn from my mistakes. Here’s how it went down.

WRAP UP
Overall I think it came out really well and I think with some practice I could make it look even better. The FasBlack made the effect a little harsh for my taste. I started with FasTint, but it wasn’t giving me the results I wanted. I think next time I will thin the FasBlack with some FasThinner. I was using a bottle of paint that had been open for a while and I started having issues with clogging halfway through, which led to a few dark spots from the paint coming out unexpectedly. In the future I will use a fresh bottle when doing so much fine shading. I also had a couple of spots on the hood, where I wasn’t paying attention and shaded where it should have overlapped. You really need to pay attention to ‘where you at’.

LINKS
Parma parmapse.com, (440) 237-8650.

The post Painting Distressed Panels & Rivets appeared first on RC Driver.

1. A lot has changed in this hobby since 1983 and you’ll see the basis of many of the RCs we drive today in the old RC10. It really was roughed together compared to the CAD technology we see today. So, the bottom trim line is not marked on this body and if you’ve never mount- ed one of these before, you’re going to go through a lot of trial error at first. I ended up taking out most of the front end and then I had to notch it to clear the steering bell cranks at full lock. I cut a slot up the side to clear the rear shock tower. Next I had to notch out more of the back end to clear the upper links at full compression. When I finally had it in place, I marked the tops of the body mounts. This is a problem I always have with angled body mounts because I forget that since the body mount is angled back you need to make your hole just for- ward of the top of the body mount.

2. Once I had the body in place, it was time to get prepped for paint by scrubbing it out with warm water and dish soap. I dried out the body with a paper towel to prevent water spots and then I applied the FasMask liquid mask by dumping a couple of little globs into the body and spreading it with a 1-inch foam brush. Better to lay it too thick than two thin. I apply two or three coats, allowing a couple hours to dry between coats and overnight after the last coat.

3.  I laid out the graphics by just drawing the  top line of the stripe. Since it is such a thin line I was able to just eyeball my second line off that. I cut and removed the top lines and then I took the numbers off the decal sheet and put them on the outside of the body. I cut the numbers on the inside of the body and removed the mask from that area. Then I filled the areas with FasBlack, laying a light mist coat, before going back with two slightly heavier coats. You lay the first coat very light so the paint doesn’t try to spread unevenly.

4. After giving the black a lit- the time to dry, I cut my next stripe by eyeballing the line off my previous line as I had done before. I filled the areas with FasBlue which is a fairly opaque color on its own, but I typically like to back it with Faswhite to keep it bright and prevent other colors from bleeding through. That is not going to be necessary in this case, since I will be using a lighter blue in my next step.

5. Before removing a big chunk of the mask for the background color, I pulled the large number off the decal sheet and applied that to the outside of the body, then cut it out on the inside. I also cut my windows out by tracing them on the outside so I had a good line to follow when I cut them on the inside. I cut just outside of the line so there would be no extra color showing after I’m done. Then I remove a big chunk of the mask to fill the area with FasFluorescent Blue. This color is very thin and can be difficult to use in large areas. I laid it in very thin coats but used five coats in total to build up the color the way I wanted. I also painted the wing and just the helmet inside the interior. The wing has some hard-to-reach areas and you’ll be best off to paint it from the inside and outside

6. I would typically back the FasFluorescent colors with FasWhite to really make them opaque. I’m going to do it this time and that is my next step, but first I remove the mask from the number on the top and the rest of the mask from the sides. Then I lay a coat in the open areas before going back and spraying the whole body in three coats of white to make it nice and opaque.

7. Rob wanted the windows cut out like it is shown on the box, but I was afraid that would make it delicate, so I decided I would at least detail the roll cage and then if he wanted to cut the windows out later that would be up to him. The box shows the cage in a flat black, so I decided to spray it from the outside, by cutting and removing the overspray film  from that area. I also cut a couple of squares on the front side of the body to simulate vents, rather than use the included decals. I left the overspray film just on the helmet of the interior. Then I sprayed those areas with FasBlack from a slight distance to make the finish a little rough. I did this now and rather than the first step I used the FasBlack, so I wouldn’t get overspray on it.

8. After giving it a good amount of time to dry, I removed the mask from the windows and also removed the overspray film. I then applied the decals to detail the interior before attaching to the inside of the body with a couple strips of servo tape. I didn’t use my good Parma Pro tape for this, I saved that for more important things and just used the tape included with the kit.

WRAP UP

I can see how some would wonder why I did not mask off such a simple scheme with tape, but if you discount the drying time I think it took me about the same amount of time to cut it in the mask and then because I was able to lay my color in the opposite order to what I would have with tape. I was able to go from dark to light and never use backing colors before the next step, which saved me a huge amount of time in the long run. I tend to use a lot of backing colors to pull off a lot of the schemes I do, but if you think like this, you can save yourself some paint time!

By David Harrington

LINKS

Parma parmapse.com, (440) 237-8650

The post Easy Paint-Job for your Old School RC10 appeared first on RC Driver.

1
I began by trimming out the body with a pair of Lexan scissors. These bodies are designed to be a general purpose fit for most short course trucks. Therefore, you will need to set it on the chas- sis to find the position where you will make holes for the body posts. Since the position of the front wheel will change as the sus- pension compresses and the wheel turns, I line the body up so the rear wheels are centered in the wheel wells. Then I mark the tops of the posts with a permanent marker on the outside of the body. Then I make the holes with a body reamer. I had an interesting problem with this body. I usually trim the bumper on the body to make way for the bumper on the car. On this one it was clear of the bumper, but hitting the grill. After some thought I just warmed up the bumper on the car and pushed it back a tad to allow the body to drop right on without any additional trimming.

2

Before masking the body I give it good scrubbing with some warm water and dish soap. I start masking my body by applying the included window and light mask. To position the window mask, I first line up a bottom corner and then I stretch it across to line up with the other side. I may have to lift and reposition the first corner. Once the bottom edge is lined up I work my way back to the top. When applying smaller mask and decals, I find it helpful to stick them on the tip of my hobby knife to get them into position. 

3

Next I start masking all my chrome trim around the windows, the bumpers, the grill,and door handles with masking tape. I like Parma’s tape because it is thin, slightly flexible, and has just enough stick. I cover the areas with tape. Then on the outside side of the body, I trace the outline with a permanent marker to give me a guideline where I will cut the tape on the inside before removing the excess.

4To apply the Parma precut graphics, I first weed away all the excess material from the masking sheet. To remove the mask from the masking sheet I use the included lift off tape. I lay it over the segment I want to lift up and then I rub it down with the back of my fingernail to get a good grip on the particular segment I want. You may have to bend at the backing paper to get the mask to come off. Once I have the mask lifted I transfer it to the body similarly to how I applied the window mask.

5

With everything all masked off I am ready to lay paint, but first I warm the vinyl mask up with a blow dryer so I can work it into door lines and crevices. I start by spraying the Fasfluorescent Green. To avoid bleeds when using tape, you need to lay light coats. Heavy coats can get under the tape. This is especially true of the fluorescent colors which are a little thinner. To make the fluorescent color more opaque and bright I back it with several coats of FasWhite.

6

After giving the paint some time to dry, I remove the flame mask. To get the mask started, I get the end up with the tip of my hobby knife and then carefully peel it away, being careful not to take the paint with it. I shade Fasfluorescent Flaming Orange around the edges and then some FasRed at the base before filling in the rest of the area with FasYellow and backing everything with FasWhite.

7It is time to start filling in the details. I remove all the masking tape from the trim areas. I fill all those areas with several coats of
the FasKrome. I meant to mask off the turn indicators in the grill area at this point, but I honestly just forgot.

8

Next I remove the headlight mask and shade just a little FasKrome in the corner. I remove all the taillight masks, and fill that area in with FasRed. I then fill in the headlights with FasWhite, while also backing the taillights, and all the FasKrome.

9To do the black in the grill, I cut away the overspray film on the out- side of the body and fill the grill area with a couple coats of FasBlack. Now all that is left to do is remove the window mask and overspray film. I like to detail the headlights by outlining and drawing in some of the lines with the ultra-fine tip of my detail pen. 

WRAP UP

Alright, so after you lay the paint and back it with white it comes out a bit brighter than what I saw in the bottle. If I wanted to come closer to the Dodge color I might have been better off to mix a custom color that used a little of the Fasfluorescent Green, but this is sure to get people’s attention, and will definitely be visible on the track. The 71 Muscle body looks great, and I’m still seeing the stock theme in the back of my head, so I may have to revisit this body later. Meanwhile I still have one more body from the muscle body to show off, so keep an eye out in the months to come for some more muscle car action!

Links

Parma parmapse.com, 440-237-8650

The post Try This Muscle Car Paint Scheme for Your RC Truck appeared first on RC Driver.

1 After trimming out the body with my Lexan scissors, I took the bumpers and sliders off the chassis to line up the body. The Ascender uses spacers to adjust how far the bumpers stick out. If I took one spacer off the rear and put it in the front, the bumpers would line up perfectly, but I wanted to keep the body’s stock bumpers for now. I know a lot of the scaler guys like to tuck the tires inside the body, but in reality a 4.5-inch 1/10-scale tire would be 45 inches in full scale. I believe a Titan with 45-inch tires would look about like this. Once I had everything lined up I marked the tops of the body posts with my marker, and then made my holes with my body reamer. The front post almost went into the windshield but it just fit!

2 Now the body is trimmed and mounted but it needs to be cleaned before I start masking. I scrub it with some dish soap and warm water to remove any residual oils. Then I dry it with a lint -free towel. I start masking by applying the included precut window masks. I apply them by tacking one corner in place with my thumbnail, then pulling it across and lining it up on a straight edge. I press it down along the edge, the remove the initial corner and reposition it. Then I start working my way back and forth until the whole mask is sealed down. Don’t worry about bubbles under the mask, just make sure you seal the edges with the back of your fingernail.

3 Next I need to apply the flame mask. I start by weeding all the excess material off the sheet so just the flames themselves and the outlines remain. I cut the transfer tape in half. I place one piece at an angle across the tips, and then the other half next to it to support the remaining mask. As you remove the mask from the sheet, it sometimes may not want to pull off, so take your time, and if a piece doesn’t lift, I press the lift-off tape back down and kind of bend and fold the paper to get the mask loose. I’m not going to lie; transferring the mask to the body can be very tricky and sometimes frustrating. You only have one chance to line it up. I hold it underneath the body, looking down through the body. Then I start pressing the tips of the flames down and work my way to the thicker parts. I had to do a little trimming to the graphics where the hood met the side. I also masked off the remaining area inside the flames with some masking tape.

4 Before I start laying the paint, I warm up the vinyl mask with a blow dryer. This will soften it so I can work it into corners. I do this right before I paint. I start spraying with some Faspearl White. I went with this, because it really just screams “cus- tom”. I just need a couple quick coats to add some sparkle. Typically I back pearl colors with FasKrome for more sparkle but the white is particularly trans- lucent so I back it with FasWhite to make it nice and bright. I lay a couple light coats, then a thicker coat, to make it opaque to block the dark colors.

5 While applying the vinyl mask can be tedious, once you get it on it’s all downhill because it is easy to remove. I start removing the outline by using the tip of my hobby knife to get the mask started and then I just peel it off. After the entire outlining mask is removed I fill it in with FasKrome. I used the FasKrome here because it is fairly neutral, but a dark color like black would have worked as well.

6 After removing the entire mask from the flame area, I re-masked the grill. Then I shaded around the edges of the flames with Faslucent Blue. I like to use the Faslucent colors for shading because they are generally thinner and work real- ly well for shading. I fill the rest the area with FasFluorescent Blue. The Fluorescent color will need to be backed with white to make it opaque.

7 One of the stand-out features of the Titan is the chrome grill. I want- ed to really accent that. So after removing the mask form the grill area I fill it with Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome. This paint is a different formulation, but on its own is very delicate and needs a water based backer, which the Parma paints are great for.

8 I like to do the trim details from the outside for a flatter look. So I cut out the pillars around the side windows, the step on the bumper, and the bed cover. Then I back the chrome grill and the entire inside of the body with FasBlack, before spraying it on the outside. 

9 After the paint has had some time to dry, you remove the window mask and the over- spray film. Then all that is left to do is apply the decals. The decals are precut, so you just have to peel and stick, but since I painted my grill, I cut out the centers and applied them.

So now that it is done, I can’t help but wonder, how did I get here? I had one idea in my head for weeks and when I sat down to do it, something else came out, but I love it and it’s got me thinking of more ideas. I would like to find some slid- ers and fender flares that I can modify to fit it. I think I’d like to keep the stock bumpers on the body, so I was considering making a bumper that attaches to the chassis, and braces the bumpers on the body, so they are more solid. Regardless of where this ends up, I think seeing things come together and not knowing how it will come out is part of the fun!

LINKS

Parma parmapse.com, 440-237-8650

The post Painting Medieval Flames: Vinyl Mask Techniques appeared first on RC Driver.

Here’s a tip for you. When you you’re picking your next RC, don’t let the body on it influence your decision. Why? Because bodies are wear and tear items that will be replaced and when you replace it, your new look can be anything you want. Parma’s line of short course bodies is ever expanding and they have you covered with everything from serious race bodies to a dune buggy, classic cars, classic trucks and now they have a selection of muscle car bodies. The first one that I’m going to paint is the 69 Muscle. I wanted to do something different on this one and I was on the phone with my friend Mike, milking him for ideas. He didn’t think he had anything to offer and just said, “Oh you know me, I just stick checkered flag decals on everything.” And it all clicked, checkered flags, they’re timeless, perfect for a muscle race car, could be a drag car, stock car, or even vintage Trans Am. It’s going to work! So this month we are painting a checkered flag on Parma’s latest muscle car body for short course. Here we go!

1 To mount this body up on my SC10, I first trimmed it out with my Lexan scissors. Then I sat it on the chassis and had notch the front around the bumper to bring it down. I could bring it down one more hole if I notched the front more, but I wanted to save as much of the bumper on the body as possible. So I raised the front body mounts as high as they would go and in the rear there was room to drill another hole in the post, to raise it up just a tad higher than the front. When I had it sitting right, I marked the tops of the body posts with a permanent marker and made my hole with a body reamer.

WRAP UP

Well, Mike didn’t think he had anything to offer but he gave me the perfect inspiration. I think it came out great. While I know there is a 9.5 brushless motor under there, when I look at it I can’t help but think loud, rumbly, big block, V-8 muscle! Parma has released three of these muscle car bodies and based on how well this one turned out; you can expect to see the others in this column. So stay tuned!

Links

Parma parmapse.com, 440-237-8650
Yeah Racing distributed by rcmart.com, yeahracing.com

The post How To: Paint a Checkered Flag on Your RC Muscle Car appeared first on RC Driver.

When Parma released the Speedflo body I loved it because it has numerous vent holes strategically placed to improve handling and help prevent parachuting over jumps. And it still looks good, not like a piece of cheese. I have been using Speedflo bodies with excellent results so when I heard the Speedflo 2.0 had been released I was excited to see what they did to improve an already good design.

The shape of the body doesn’t seem to have changed much, but the roof does seem to have more of a rake for more downforce. The biggest change you will notice is that the cut- out holes are oval in shape which should greatly increase the durability, as square holes tend to crack in the corners. The holes are also larger which will improve air flow and are also large enough that you can get your rotary tool’s sanding barrel in there to clean them up. People like to see a roll cage, but I have found that many of my bodies crack right on the crease of the cage. I noticed this body doesn’t have a roll cage molded in. I assume this is also to improve durability. The 2.0 is also available in a thinner, lightweight version, as well as the standard thickness. This should improve handling but I personally feel thinner bodies actually tend to be more durable because they bend more before they crack.

Now I have one of the lightweight versions and I just need to slap a paint job in it so I can see how it drives!

1
To start, you will need to trim the body out with a pair of Lexan scis- sort. Be careful not to discard the number plates and fins. I found the easiest way for me to cut out the vent holes is to score the Lexan on the line several times, then push the piece back and forth until it pops out. You do not need to trim out all the holes. You can just do certain holes to customize your handling to your desire. The front holes and the ones behind the cab will improve stability and minimize the parachute effect. The ones in the rear will help on large jumps and large tracks. Since this body is designed to be a general purpose fit for most short course trucks, there are no markings for the holes. You will have to set the body on your chassis and mark the tops of the body post with a permanent marker. I was able to drop this body right on the SC10 with no additional trimming.

2
After you’ve trimmed and test-fitted the body, it is time to prep it for paint. The body must be scrubbed out with warm water and some dish soap to remove any residual oils that can mess up your paint. Then I apply the included precut window mask. There are numerous techniques you can use to mask your paint job, but liquid mask has become my go-to method. To apply the Fasmask I just pour a little bit into the roof, then use a foam brush to start spreading it. I do two or three good thick coats, allowing a couple of hours drying time between coats and preferably overnight after the last coat.

3
For this paint job I wanted to create a graphic that looked like an explosion bursting off the front of the truck in layers of colors. I first sketched out my idea on a piece of notebook paper. After I had my idea roughed out, I traced it over with my detail pen to create a reverse image on the back for the other side of the truck. I then held my drawing on the inside of the body while I traced it on the outside. You can use any permanent marker, but I like to use my Parma Detail Pen.

4
I start by cutting out the graphics in the front first. Make sure you start with a brand new, sharp blade in your hobby knife and then lightly cut the liquid mask, being careful not to score the body. On pointy graphics like this, be very careful to cut the tips all the way or you will have problems when you
remove it. I want my graphics to be very bright so I have better orientation when I’m up on the driver’s stand, so I shaded Fasfluorescent Blue around the edges. Then I cut a thin outline around the graphics. I filled in the graphic with Faswhite, which will make the fluorescent color pop. I also filled the outline at the same time.

5
Now I’m going to cut my next set of graphics, just like I did the first, but this time I shaded FasFluorescent Orange around the edge before cutting the outline. Then I filled the whole area with FasFluorescent Yellow before backing it with FasWhite. This will not only make the color pop, but also prevents the following layers from showing through.

6
I meant to use FasFluorescent Red but I accidentally grabbed the bottle of FasRed next to it. I think the brighter color would have looked better but this is fine. So, anyway, I shaded the FasRed around the edges before cutting the outline and filling with FasFluorescent Flaming Orange and backing with FasWhite.

7
After I’ve done the final layer of graphics, I remove the remaining liquid mask. Before laying the background color, I shade Faslucent Purple around the edges of the body and graphic so the solid color will have a little more depth. Then I fill the remaining area with Faspearl Blue. The pearl color will need a backing color and FasKrome will also help it sparkle.

8
To finish I cut and remove trim from the windows and I also cut away the overspray film covering the bed area because I like to paint the bed from the outside for a flatter finish. I back the entire inside with FasBlack for a uniform look. Then I spray the bed area, number plates and fins. You should give the finished paint job some time to dry before removing the window mask and overspray film. Then you just need to apply the decals and mount the number plates and fins.

WRAP UP
I haven’t run a stock body on my short course trucks since I can’t remember when. When I get a new RC the first thing I change is the right tires for my track, and then comes the Parma SpeedFlo body. I haven’t had a chance to get the 2.0 version on the track, but I don’t see how it can’t be better. I can’t wait to try it! Come on weekend, hurry up and get here!
LINKS
Parma parmapse.com, 440-237-8650
Yeah Racing distributed by rcmart.com, yeahracing.com

The post How To: Parma Speedflo 2.0 Body Gets an Explosive Look! appeared first on RC Driver.

From RC Driver Issue: 134
by David Harrington

Usually when we see new product in the hobby world, it is based on full-scale automotive or other existing technology. While I’m sure the technology is out there, this month I have something I’ve never seen before. I would guess that between the original and the remake, most of us have seen one of the versions of the movie Tron. One of the most striking features of that movie was the vehicles which had glowing edges. The Tron LED wire is a flexible strand of wire that lights up consistently from end to end, so you can attach it to your body to get the look of one of those vehicles from the movie. It would have made sense to use these on a sleek sports car for a futuristic look like in the movie, but if you know me by now, you know I don’t like to do what is expected. I thought a classic full fender truck has a lot nice curves to accentuate. So I used Parma’s Speed Shop Hauler body for short course trucks. I wanted the focus to be on the LED wire, but I had to do a little something for the paint. I decided to soft mask in some flames for a ghostly effect where the flames disappear into the darkness and pop out when the light hits them, and here is how it all went down.

ITEMS USED

Yeah Racing

• Tron LED Wire #LK-0029PK

Parma

• Speed Shop Hauler Body #1241
• 18mm masking tape #40257
• Faslucent Purple #40311
• Faspearl Silver #40050
• FasKrome #40300
• FasBlack #40001
• FasWhite #40000
• Faslucent Red #40307

Step 1
The Speed Shop Hauler body is a general fit for most short course bodies, but you may have to do some extra trimming to get it adapted to your chassis. I’m mounting it on my trusty old Blitz. I had a spare rear bumper, so I cut the ends off the old one to clear the narrow bed of the pickup body. The front of the body is resting on my front bumper, so to clear the bumper and lower the front down until it was level with the chassis; I cut a little over a quarter inch off the bottom of the nose with my Lexan scissors. Since this body has a tall hood line, I needed to extend the front body post a little. I used some threeinch post from Parma, since I would have to cut the bottom off to work in the Blitz’s mounting holes. Once I had the body sitting correctly, I marked where my mounting holes would be on the outside with a permanant marker and then made the holes with a body reamer.

Step 2
Now, before I start any kind of painting I want to figure out exactly how I’m going to mount the lights. I want to mount the controller box to the body, someplace that is in a neutral spot close enough to the receiver that I can remove the body without unplugging the lights and where the lights will exit the body. You also want to make sure the wires are routed away from the tires or any moving parts. I chose a spot right in front of the rear shock tower. It is a good idea to mock up the LED wire to make sure you have enough length to do the job you want to do, and this will help you determine exactly where you want to make your hole for the wire to exit the body. I made mine right behind the rear fender.

Step 3
Once everything is all mocked up, I’m ready to paint. I start by scrubbing the body out with warm water and dish soap. After drying the body with a lint free cloth, it is time to start masking. This body comes with precut window mask, and I’ll tell you, it sure would have made my life a lot easier if I knew what I did with mine. So I had to mask the windows with masking tape. Then I masked off the headlights, grill, and taillights. To mask these areas off I covered them in tape. I like the Parma masking tape because it is thin and somewhat flexible. After the area I want to mask is covered, I cut away the excess with my hobby knife, being careful not to cut into the body. Sometimes tracing the detail on the outside of the body with a permanent marker can help you find your line.

Step 4
Now it is time to start painting. I lay the Faslucent purple first in a couple of light mist coats, then a heaver one, using overlapping strokes that follow the lines of the body. After it is covered in the purple, I give it some time to dry before soft masking in my flames. I have covered soft masking several times in the past, but it is not hard. You can cut your own template, or buy a precut one where they sell airbrush supplies. I am using a precut one for convenience. You just lay it in place, lightly holding it down with your fingertips, while trying to keep your fingers out of the way, and lightly spray in the Faspearl Silver. Make sure you clean the excess paint off the template before flipping it over to do the other side. Then I back it all with a couple of good coats of FasBlack.

Step 5
After the last heavier coats have had enough time to dry, I cut out the centers of the headlights and taillights and then remove the ring of mask from around the outside edge. I also remove the mask from the grill area. I then covered those areas with FasKrome. Some Fasblack will help make the FasKrome more opaque, but it is a fairly opaque color, and I just skipped the black, and laid it a little thicker.

Step 6
After allowing time for the FasKrome to dry, I removed the masking tape in the centers of the headlights and taillights. I filled the headlights in with a quick coat of FasWhite, and then filled the taillights with FasLucent Red.

Step 7
Now that the paint job is done, I can go ahead and remove the window mask and overspray film, and then I’m ready to mount the LED wire. I stick the controller box in my preplanned spot using the included piece of double stick tape, then route the wire out through the hole I made. The instruction warned to use caution when using hot glue as it can melt the casing of the wire. I considered alternatives, but a CA glue could fog the Lexan, and a craft glue such as Shoe Goo would dry too slow to tack the wire in place. I decided to go with hot glue and use caution. I apply a drop to the body in a strategic spot to hold it against the curves. I apply the glue to the body first, allow just a second to cool, and then press the wire in. I didn’t have any problems with melting the wire, but it did pop off and need to be re-glued in a couple of spots, so you don’t want to let it cool too long. If you need to you can trim it to length, but make sure you replace the plastic cap on the end or you risk electric shock.

WRAP UP
This LED wire is really cool. It almost has a neon light effect in the way it glows eerily. I just like staring at it! It is sure to get instant attention on any RC body you decide to use it on, and it is available in eight colors to suit your taste. I feel I should warn you that I do not recommend it for your race bodies as there are warnings all over that if the wire gets cut or severed, that you could get a shock. I’m sure if you were bumping and banging on the track, you could potentially cut the wire, and I’m sure the turn marshal would not appreciate the jolt when he goes to flip your car over!

Links
Parma parmapse.com, 440-237-8650
Yeah Racing distributed by rcmart.com, yeahracing.com

The post RCD Paint Plus: Yeah Racing – Tron Led Wire appeared first on RC Driver.

Words and Photos by David Harrington
From RC Driver Issue: 133

By the time you’re done building a chassis, painting
 the body can be a chore but this is no time to be
in a hurry. For me it is the best part of seeing an
 RC vehicle come together. When I saw the Vaterra Ascender release I just saw an awesome ‘86 K-5 Chevy Blazer body with a cool molded plastic chrome grill. Yeah, there is a cool new innovative chassis underneath but I love my Chevys and had to have it. It’s funny how life works. When I started painting Lexan bodies they didn’t usually come with trim decals and I had to learn to paint everything. Now most bodies come with trim and detail decals and the Ascender is no exception. I especially like how the window decals are tinted. But decals get torn off on the trail and I’ve got to the point where I like to do my own details. So I saw this as a good opportunity to share some detailing tips on how I tried to kick this body up a notch. I spent all week building this truck so let’s get to painting!

ITEMS USED
Parma
• FasMask liquid mask #40281
• Faspearl Silver #40050
• Faspearl Blue #40055
• FasKrome #40300
• FasBlack #40001
• FasWhite #40000
• Faslucent Red #40307
• Faslucent Orange #40309

Step 1
You should be able to just trim the body on the lines make the holes in the pre-marked spots and drop it on the chassis. If life was only that easy for me! I seem to always have to do something different. I wasn’t a fan of how the sliders wrapped around the door so I left the spacers out to narrow them up then I shaved gap between the body and the sliders. To lower the body I had to cut where it meets the bumpers. I started at the wheel wells and cut up at an angle. That took about an eighth of an inch off the front and back. To get the other eighth off, I notched the body slightly. I not only like the way that lines up the bumpers but I also like how it tucks the wheels into the wheel wells more.
Step 2
I always debate with myself over the masking technique and I usually end up using liquid mask. While this is a simple scheme that would be easy to tape off and tape would save me from cut- ting some straight lines, ultimately I would still do some cutting. Liquid mask is easier to cut and minimizes frustrations that paint bleeds can cause. I laid two good thick coats of Fasmask with a foam brush, allowing a couple of hours to dry between coats and overnight after the last coat.

Step 3
Most of the cutting will be done in this first step. I traced the details on the outside with a perma- nent marker and then carefully cut them on the inside. To start, I cut the rear roof area out, the outside of the front and side windows, rear gate latch, the trim piec- es, the turn indicators, the line that splits the two- tone around the trim of the rear taillights and the panel between. Make sure you leave the headlight area masked. I found a brochure for ‘86 Blazers online and checked out my color options. I settled on a light blue and silver theme but I had to mix my own blue. I wanted to get a shade close to the factory color so I added a little bit of Faspearl Blue to the Faspearl Silver. The blue will overpower the silver quickly so it doesn’t take much. It will look darker in the bottle and I feel I could have gone a shade darker. After getting a color I liked I laid three coats, starting with two lighter coats before laying a heavier coat.

Step 4
After that last big step the bulk of the hard stuff is done. It’s all downhill from here. I already cut the line for the two-tone scheme so I just had to remove the mask from the bottom area and lay my FasPearl Silver in the same manner as I did the blue.

Step 5
Normally I would have backed the last two Faspearl colors with FasKrome to make them opaque but since I was using the silver behind the blue I saved some time and skipped to this step. Next I cut out the centers of the turn indicators and rear taillights, just removing the outside trim. The rear center panel I did similar to the rear trim panel. Then I removed the mask from the rear latch before spraying the FasKrome in those areas and then backing the whole body.

Step 6
For the rear panel I wanted to try something different. I have demonstrated a brushed aluminum technique in the past and this was the perfect practical application for that. I laid a thick coat of FasKrome and then before it dried I took a large soft bristle brush and dragged it through, trying to keep my lines as straight as possible. I then backed it with FasSilver and then FasBlack. I got in a hurry and didn’t lay the silver thick enough. You want a good coat of it so the black doesn’t show through too much.

Step 7
Back in ‘86 the roof would have been black, white or color option one which would be the blue. I decided to go with a white roof to compliment the scheme but first I had to cut the trim around the rear window before removing the mask from the roof. I also cut out two small squares in the rear taillights. Then I laid three good coats of the FasWhite. I wanted to make sure it was opaque so the other colors wouldn’t show through.

Step 8
Now I cut out all the windows and removed the trim around them. Most ‘86 Blazers had brushed aluminum trim but black vinyl was an option which I thought would complement my bumpers so I also removed the trim pieces before filling these areas with Fasblack. I also backed the whole body in black for a clean, finished look.

Step 9
I finished up the painting by removing the mask from the turn indicators and rear tail- lights. I filled the indicators in with Faslucent Orange and the taillights with Faslucent Red. I did not back these semitransparent colors because I will be adding lights later.

Step 10
The molded chrome grill looks great on its own but I had to give it some love too. I
filled the in-betweens on the grill with FasBlack using a No.1 Round brush. I kept paper towels nearby to wipe off any mistakes. Another factory option was to have the center trim of the grill painted the body color so I taped off that section and sprayed a couple of coats of the color that I mixed up.

WRAP UP
I just wanted the body I saw on the box. The Vaterra body looks great on its own. I could have just sprayed some blue and been done with it but I think the extra time I took really made a difference. When I took it out for pictures I thought it looked just like the real thing! Now I get to finally drive it and that is the best part!

Links
Parma parmapse.com, 440-237-8650

The post RCD Paint Plus: Detail Your RC Truck Body for More Realism appeared first on RC Driver.

Words: David Harrington
Photos: David Harrington

Parma always comes up with interesting bodies that fill a niche market, and I always happen to be in that market. I loved that they made a dune buggy body for a short course chassis, and now they have come up with this, a classic car desert racer! I have seen pictures of these cars off road, and the little angel on one shoulder tells me I should stick to the theme of a classic Baja racer, but when I look at this body, the little devil on the other shoulder says, “Hot rod flames!” He is a persuasive little guy, so hot rod flames it is! I wanted a period correct color and red or back would be too common. I thought about turquoise, but then someone suggested it, so “sea foam” green it is! There are dozens of variations of that color, and I wanted to keep it period correct, so I found a Chevy color chart from 1955, and mixed up a custom color matched to a shade they called Sea Mist Green.

ITEMS USED
Spaz Stix
• Ultimate Mirror Chrome #10000
• Ultimate Surface Prep #90059

Parma
• Fifty Five body
• FasMask liquid mask
• FasBlack #40001
• Faswhite #40000
• FasSky Blue #40012
• Faslucent Yellow #40310
• Faslucent Red #40307
• Faslucent Orange #40309
• Fasescent Purple #40152
• 3” body post

Step 1

The front hood line is really high on this body, so you’ll probably have to install longer posts. Just to make sure they were long enough, I started with Parma’s three-inch posts. To fit them to the Blitz body mount holders, I first snipped the larger part off the bottom with wire snips so the posts would drop into the holes. Then I held the post at the height I wanted while I marked where the hole for the pin would be with my body reamer. I started the hole with the reamer and then finished with a hand drill. Once the posts were in place, I lined up my body and marked my holes with a detail pen.

Step 2

Once the body was mounted, I wiped out the dust and shavings and gave it a shot of Spaz Stix Ultimate Surface Prep. I then applied the window mask. I started by lining up one corner, sealing down an edge, and then working my way back and forth, working out bubbles as I go. The front and rear windows have kind of a deep contour, so you may need to warm those masks with a blow dryer after they’ve been applied to work them into the contours and smooth out any wrinkles.

Step 3

I covered the inside of the body with liquid mask, using a foam brush to apply three coats, and then let it dry overnight. I find it easier to draw graphics like flames on a flat surface so I sketched some flames on a piece of paper. Then I traced them over with a marker to create a reverse image. After tracing the flames on the doors, I flipped them over on the hood so it would look less like the same pattern.

Step 4

Once my graphics were laid out on the outside of the body, it was time to start cutting them out on the inside of the body. I cut them with my hobby knife, being careful not to cut too deeply and score the body. Try to cut the lines in a continuous motion, ending your lines on the tips of the flames and making sure your start and stop lines intersect.

Step 5

I usually like to remove the graphic and paint that first, but because I drew my flames with the licks overlapping, I had to remove the mask from the background first. Before doing so, I cut out the rear taillights and bumper so those would remain masked. I did this by first tracing them on the outside with my detail pen so I had a guideline to follow when I cut.

Step 6

To mix up my Sea Mist Green, I started with FasSky and then I added just a tad of Faslucent Yellow, a couple of drops at a time, until I got the hue I was looking for. I felt it looked a little murky so I added a couple of drops of Faswhite. After laying three coats in the body, I backed it with a coat of Faswhite so the other colors would not bleed through.

Step 7

With the background in place, I cut the outline around the flames by cutting just inside my previous cut line. After removing the mask from the outline, I filled it with Fasescent Purple. I would normally fill the pearl colors with FasKrome to give them more sparkle, but in this case I used Faswhite as a backer to make the color pop.

Step 8

After the outline, it was time to remove the mask in the flames, but first I cut out the headlights, turn indicators, and grill, so those areas would remain masked. Then I sprayed Faslucent Yellow around the edges of the flames before filling in with Faswhite.

Step 9

I wanted a chrome trim line around the lights so I cut my line, and then peeled out the center sections first. I filled the turn indicators with Faslucent Orange, the tail lights with Faslucent Red, and shaded some Faswhite around the edges of the headlights. Next, I removed the mask from the rear bumper and grill, and filled all areas with Ultimate Mirror Chrome, backing the Faslucent colors at the same time.

Step 10

I finished up by backing everything with FasBlack to make it good and opaque. All that was left was to remove the overspray film and window mask.

LINKS
Parma parmapse.com, (440) 237-8650
Spaz Stix spazstix.com, (800) 706-0690

The post Parma’s Baja Fifty Five appeared first on RC Driver.